Pan Gravies

Beef with red-eye gravy. Coffee and beef!

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: up to ten minutes

Cooking time: 1 to 5 minutes

Cost per serving: $0.50 to $2.00 or more if you use fancy ingredients like expensive mushrooms

Useful leftovers: Depends

Making a pan sauce or gravy is easy and delicious. It has a bad name because of some bad practices but we'll avoid those.

The idea of a pan gravy is to make a fast, tasty sauce using the caramelized brown bits left in the bottom of the pan and a flavorful liquid. It's the cheapskate's perfect way to add flavor to sauteed meats or vegetables.

Some caveats:

- If the stuff in the bottom of the pan is burned it won't make a tasty sauce. It will taste burned.
- In traditional French cooking your pan sauce would have lots of butter in it. We'll avoid that.
- The liquids and seasoning used in the gravy must be flavorful and complement the food to be sauced.

The general rules for making a pan gravy are:

- Take the sauteed or roasted items out of the pan and keep warm
- Cook aromatics in the pan
- Add liquids and reduce
- Season

Pork tenderloin with gravy made from water!

Let's say you wanted to make pork chops and country gravy. You would saute the chops in a heavy bottomed frying pan. When they are done you remove them and keep them warm, drain the fat out of the pan and add a bit of coffee.  Turn the heat to high and scrape up all the goodness on the bottom of a pan. Pour it over the chops.

To make chicken with mushroom gravy cook the chicken in a heavy bottomed pan. Remove it and keep it warm and add some minced onion and sliced mushrooms and cook quickly. When they are cooked and brown add a bit of dried thyme, a touch of milk or cream and scrape up the bottom of the pan. Pour it over the chicken.

To make a steak with red wine gravy cook the steak in the pan, take it out and keep it warm. Follow the directions for the chicken above but instead of milk or cream add some red wine and reduce. Then at the last minute add a touch of butter, or milk or cream or sour cream and swirl.

You can use all sorts of liquids to make the gravy. You can use apple juice or tomato juice, water, milk, cream, liquors, etc. Just make sure it complements the principal ingredients and use a good tasting liquid. An over the hill or sour wine will make bland or off-putting gravy. You don't have to use Lafite to make gravy but if you use crappy wine you'll get crappy gravy.

Season the gravy with salt and pepper at the last minute.

Onions and Fennel

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 7 - 10  minutes

Cost per serving: $0.75 to $1.00

Useful leftovers: Yes. This is great thrown into a soup or used in a pasta sauce

I served a nice dinner to a friend yesterday and this was the dish he really liked. It's easy and fast and very tasty.

This recipe involves dry-frying, my technique of cooking vegetables in a hot pan with no oil or liquids.

1 Onion
1 large bulb of Fennel
A bit of olive oil or butter
Salt and Pepper

Peel, remove the stem and chop the onion into slices or chunks at least 1/4" thick. If they are too thin they will burn rather than grill.

Peel if necessary, remove the core and chop of slice the same size as the onion.

Put the vegetables in a cold heavy bottomed frying pan and turn the heat onto medium. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are completely cooked and browned a little. Season with salt and pepper, a bit of olive oil or butter and swirl the pan around. Serve.

This dish can stay hot in the pan for a few minutes.

You can make this with parsnips, celery, very small dice of carrots, zucchini, etc.

You can serve this with Super Sauce, walnut pieces, bits of smoked ham, sliced green leafy herbs like basil or parsley, or rosemary or cumin.

Cucumber and Carrot Salad

Difficulty: Very easy

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: None

Cost per serving: $0.25 to $1.00

Useful leftovers: Useful but not great. The salad is best fresh.

So easy! So healthy! So tasty!
1 cucumber
1 carrot
1 tablespoon of walnut pieces
Toasted sesame oil
Lemon juice or vinegar
Salt and pepper

Wash the cucumber and slice it thinly or cut into chunks.

Scrub the carrot and cut it into small pieces. I like to do this by cutting a thin slice lengthwise so it will sit flat, then cutting it into wedges, then cutting those into sticks. Use a sharp, heavy knife for best control.

Put the cucumber and carrot in a mixing bowl and season with the sesame oil, lemon juice or vinegar and salt and pepper. Sprinkle the walnuts on top and serve.

To make this really special, toast the walnuts for a few minutes in a dry saute pan over medium heat or in a 350° oven for a few minutes, then let them cool and add them to the salad.

How to Cook Steaks or Chops

Difficulty: Medium but takes some practice to get the doneness right

Prep time: depends how much trimming the steak needs

Cooking time: 10 minutes per inch of steak

Cost per serving: $1.00 and up depending on the quality and cut of meat

Useful leftovers: Holy Escoffier yes!

Is there anything more satisfying than a good steak!

There are a couple of tricks to making a really great steak and here they are. These apply to beef steaks, pork chops, lamb, whatever but for clarity's sake I am going to use beef in all the examples.

Pork tenderloin with red eye (coffee!) gravy

First you have to start with a good piece of meat. Since steak is a simple dish the ingredients truly matter.

Knowing which cut to use makes a huge difference.  Muscles that get used a lot like the leg and shoulder do not make tender steaks. They have to braised or ground to get them to be tender enough to eat.


The most tender part of a mammal is the tenderloin, a long thin muscle that lays against the spine. On an animal where the spine is horizontal, like cattle, the tenderloin does practically nothing. It has very little fat or connective tissue. It's the most tender cut but also the least flavorful. It's the most expensive part of the animal because it is so tender, but that hardly makes it the best steak.

One of my favorites - lamb flank steaks!

Next on the list are cuts that come from the rib section, such as the rib-eye and the New York strip. These are the perfect combination of tenderness and flavor.  Marbling, or the fat in between the muscle fibers, will determine the quality and price of the steak. At the top is Wagyu, or Kobe style beef. It is very rich with obvious marbling all through the meat. I'll never forget the first time I tried it at Grace in Los Angeles. It's expensive but really a great experience to eat.

Sirloin chops come from an area that gets a little more exercise so they are not quite as tender but still can be good eating.  Steaks from the round and flank are less tender yet but still can be made into good steaks. There are other small steaks that are interesting but come from less tender areas of the animal. I like flat iron steaks that come from the shoulder. There are only two small steaks per animal but they have an interesting texture and a lot of flavor. They also cook very quickly.

Steaks cut from the shoulder and leg can be rather chewy.

Pork sirloin steak with chipotle and powdered garlic

So now to the technique.

1) Take the steaks out of the fridge and let them come to room temperature before you cook them. Rub them with oil to help brown them.

2) Salt but don't pepper them right before cooking. You'll add more salt later so don't over do it.

3) If you are cooking indoors use a heavy bottomed pan. The heavy bottom will spread the heat evenly and will not cool off when you put the meat in it.

If you are cooking outdoors get your grill hot.

Rolled lamb leg steak with Super Sauce

 4) Use the guideline of ten minutes per inch to cook the meat. If it is less than an inch thick you can cook it right on top of the stove but if it is thicker you'll want to brown it on top of the stove, baste it then finish it in a hot oven. This improves the texture and keeps the outside from overcooking while the meat cooks through.

To test for doneness the best way is to press the steak with your finger. If it is soft it is rare. If it is firm but still a little soft in the middle it is medium rare (this is where I take it off the heat). If it is firm it is well done. If you are not sure you can take a small knife and peek inside.

Let the steak rest for a couple of minutes before serving it. If you cut into it right away the moisture will run right out and the meat will get gray, toughen up and be dry.

How to cook Green Beans

Quick, easy and so tasty as a side dish.

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: up to ten minutes

Cooking time: 1 to 5 minutes

Cost per serving: $0.50 to $1.00

Useful leftovers: Yes

I love this method of cooking vegetables. They steam in their own juices and get a little browning action.

Clean, dry and trim some green beans. Cut them into one inch lengths.



Get a heavy bottomed pan hot and add the beans. Do not put oil or butter in the pan first. Don't stir them, let them brown.

When you can see they are about a third of the way done shake the pan and turn them all over to cook the other side.

When they are about a third of the way done on the second side add a pat or two of butter and swirl the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and remove from the pan immediately.

The beans will be crunchy and have a great deep flavor.

This recipe also works with zucchini, celery, parsnips, etc.

Easy, Fast, Tasty, Pea soup

Just one word - YUM!

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: up to ten minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Cost per serving: $0.50 and up depending on garnishes

Useful leftovers: Yes


Just like the title says this is easy, fast and very tasty. 

1 small onion or half a big one
1 small carrot of half a big one
1 pound bag of frozen peas, rinsed with hot water
Pinch of thyme, fresh or dried
1 tablespoon of olive oil

Cut the carrot and onion into small dice. Saute gently in the olive oil until they are cooked but not browned. This is called sweating.

Add the peas and enough water just to cover them. Bring to a boil and blend, either with a stick or regular blender or in a food processor. Salt and pepper to taste.

To make it fancy blend it really well then force it through a sieve. This will get rid of any bits of veggies that didn't puree completely and give you a smoother texture.

You can add a touch of cream and a dot of butter if you want a more classic French style soup.

You can garnish this soup many ways. I like crunchy or salty things as they contrast with the mild soup. Croutons, nuts, bits of ham, small chunks of lemon and bits of black olive are all great with this soup. You could put a dollop of yogurt or sour cream in the middle for a nice garnish.

Hartman House Dressing/Marinade/Cheap Drunk

NOTE: For reasons of historical accuracy and general laziness I have not edited this recipe, hence the layout problems and such. Sorry.  It's another thing we created to get plant matter into our kids stomachs. Enjoy!


1 liter     Kalamata Olive oil (1)
1 cup or so cheap balsamic vinegar
1 large wine glass     Latour '63
4 or 5  anchovy fillets, or smoked herring (see NOTE)
1/2   Lemon
1 big blopping tablespoon     Dijon mustard
1 Boatload     garlic, peeled,  little brown umbilicals and any brown spots cut off (2)
1 Boatload     fresh herbs (3)
Wooooseeestershire sauce to taste, probably a teaspoon or so
Freshly cracked black pepper to taste
One nasty little pinch of sugar
Salt to taste

1) Juice the lemon and if you want, chop up a teaspoon or so of the zest. Rinse the herbs and dry them on a paper towel. (4)

2) Put the garlic, mustard, anchovies, herbs, lemon juice and zest into a food processor. Add enough balsamic vinegar just to cover it and chop the bejeezes out of it. It doesn't need to be pureed,  it should have lots of little pieces in it.

3) With the motor running if possible, add a few drops of olive oil. Let it process for a few seconds to start the emulsion. Slowly add more oil, waiting for it to process every few seconds.

I don't have a big food processor, so at this point I put it into a large bowl and use a wire whisk to beat it like DELETED as I slowly add the oil. You'll want to add more vinegar.

4) Call me first, then rush like hell over to my house so I can have the Latour. Hmm, maybe I'll make myself a steak to go with it. Thanks!

5) Add the Woosterstuff sauce, pepper and sugar. Mix it up and taste it (I like to use a cucumber stick or jicama, but a clean finger works well) before you add any salt, or more pepper or other stuff.

(1) OK, so you'll need a little less than that.
(2) 1 boatload equals a dozen big cloves or so. At least.
(3) A bunch of basil and half a bunch of parsley does well. I use about two cups of herbs.
(4) You don't have to go crazy drying the herbs, they're full of water anyway.

 NOTE: If you are using canned anchovies or anchovy paste you don't have to rinse them. If you are using the fancy salted anchovies then soak them for five minutes in water, then pull their little spines out, pinch off any bones or guts that are left on them (this is why anchovies don't like humans) and rinse them well. You can also use smoked herring, which is really cheap and you can get it in any market. A can costs about a buck. Sometimes they are called kippers or kippered herring. Use the ones in oil, not sauce.

NEXT NOTE: It hardly ever stays emulsified so don't worry about it.

EVEN MORE OF THESE DAMN NOTES:  You might notice that I have these NB type notes and the numbered notes above. I noticed that too. Too much Fledermaus will do that to ya.

SIGH - MORE NOTES:  If you are going to use a different oil, I would recommend cheaper rather than more expensive. You are going to process it with a boatload of garlic and anchovies. Any subtle flavor derived from the precious volcanic soils of Vesuvius are going to be smothered by the fragrant tang of the fruit of Gilroy.

Onions and Peppers

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: Depends on how much you make but for 2 lbs of peppers and an onion figure 10 minutes

Cooking time: 7 - 10  minutes

Cost per serving: cheap

Useful leftovers: Oh yes

This sounds too simple to be good. I almost always have a tub of this in my fridge and I use it all the time.

Onions
Sweet red peppers
Olive oil
Salt

This would be so drab without it!

It couldn't be much simpler. Go to a market where you can get inexpensive red bell peppers. There are some Asian markets near here where I sometimes get them for less than a dollar. 

Number two peppers are fine for this. Those are the ones that are too twisted or have a scar or blemish and can't be sold as a number 1. As long as they are not cracked open or disgusting or old they are fine. Look for crisp ones that have a relatively smooth skin.

I don't care about the skins on the peppers but if you do go ahead and peel them. 

Wash and dry the peppers. Cut the flesh into strips. I don't cook for customers or teachers so I don't care if they are all the same size. Makes no difference here.

Cut an onion into chunks.

Put the vegetables into a dry, heavy bottomed pan. You cannot make this in a thin pan. You'll burn everything. Turn the heat onto medium and when they are just starting to brown add 1/4 cup of good olive oil. Not a fancy olive oil, just not a bitter cheesy one.

Turn the heat way down and stir like mad.  At this point you want to cook the stuff very slowly for at least 1/2 hr.  We don't want a lot of browning but we want everything to be fully cooked and soft. Don't let a molecule of raw onion remain but be careful nothing burns. If you can cook it for 45 minutes without burning it so much the better.

Put the peppers and onions into a bowl and scrape the stuff from the bottom of the pan into the bowl. Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt and another tablespoon of olive oil. When it is cooled to room temperature put it in the fridge.

Here are some ways that I use this:

As a bruschetta topping, sometimes with smoked herring and lemon or with cucumbers
As a pasta sauce base
As a meat sauce base
As a salad dressing base
Over a rare steak or piece of lamb or sausage
As a salad ingredient
As a filling in a stuffed chicken breast of pork chop
As a flavoring oil'
As a dip

You can vary this many ways. I sometimes add serrano chiles or chunks of potato. I like to sprinkle Cholula hot sauce on it. You can use it to top chile or enchiladas. It's great with sour cream.

These peppers go well with bits of salty things like ham but also with very savory things like grilled meat, sausage, or meaty fish like mackerel.

The best thing in this recipe is the oil! It tastes great. Just sprinkle a little on a grilled Italian sausage, or grilled eggplant or tomatoes. Just great.

Truffled Mushroom Sauce

I don't make a lot of sauces. I can make several dozen but we eat pretty cleanly here.

But on special occasions this kicks butt. Don't believe the snobby wisdom that canned or jarred truffles aren't worth eating. They are not the same as fresh truffles but for a sauce like this they are fantastic. I buy mine from Pistol River Mushrooms. Right now a small jar of truffle peelings (perfectly good for this) are less than $7 and whole truffles are less than $8.


1 half of a black truffle or the same amount of chopped truffles
1 onion, diced very finely
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 clove of garlic, chopped
2 oz dried mushrooms, any kind
1/2 lb fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 tablespoon Madeira or Marsala
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon butter

If you make the steaks in a frying pan you can take them out and make this sauce in the pan while the meat is resting.

Soak the dried mushrooms in a cup of hot water for at least 15 minutes. I start them before I cook the steaks.

Saute the onion and fresh mushrooms in the butter until the onions are just translucent and not browned. Add the truffle, tomato paste and the garlic and cook, stirring constantly for a minute.

Add the liquid from the dried mushrooms and if they are tender enough, chop and add them. Off the heat add the Madeira or Marsala then cook for another minute (being careful as it might flame up).

Add the cream and reduce everything over high heat for a minute until it thickens. Add salt and pepper to taste.  Serve in a sauceboat and it won't be long until the groans of pleasure begin!

Chicken Stuffed Under the Skin

The secret to this dish is to put something flavorful under the skin then get the skin crisp. In this version I use bacon but you can use butter, sauteed mushrooms or onions or carrots or just about anything. I will admit that when I made this for the blog I ate both portions one after the other. As I write this I am stuffed but it’s a good kind of stuffed. I’ll eat light tomorrow.

Oh man Oh man Oh man Oh man

If you don’t want the extra fat in the skin just take it off after cooking. It will help to keep the meat from drying out. Cooking with the bones adds a lot of flavor.


I know this looks long and difficult but it really isn't.

For 2 people:

2  Chicken breasts, bone in and skin on. You want a lot of skin.
1 slice of bacon (of course I used my home made bacon for extra incredibleness)
Hartman House Spice Mix or your favorite spice blend or rub
Olive oil
4 lemons

Put some olive oil in a bowl and add the spice rub. Add salt if you wish but don’t use pepper until after it’s cooked.

Slice the bacon in half width wise. Trim any extra fat or bones off the chicken.

Take each chicken breast and loosen the skin at the top and the bottom so you can slide the bacon right in there. Make sure it lays flat.

Dip the skin of the chicken into the spiced olive oil or rub it on the chicken with a spoon.

Heat a heavy bottomed pan over medium heat. You want the skin to brown and sizzle but you don’t want to burn the spices.

Put the chicken skin side down in the skillet. If the sides get hot lean the chicken against them so the most skin is touching the hot surface as possible.

Wash the lemons and cut them in half. Throw them in the bowl with the spiced oil and swish them around. Put them cut side down if possible in the skillet.

Turn the oven on to 375°.

When the chicken is brown put the pan in the oven in the middle rack or higher. Roast for 10 minutes then turn the chicken skin side up. Baste with juices from the pan. If there aren’t enough then add a tablespoon of water and swirl it around.

Bake for another 5 minutes and check to see if they are done. This is where experience helps because the best way to tell is by touching the chicken. When it is raw it feels mushy and soft, when it is overdone it feels hard. When it is just right it feels firm but springy.

When they are done take them out of the pan, blot them to dry the surface and let them rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with a grinding or two of black pepper.

Meanwhile squeeze all the juices from the lemons (a big spoon works well) and if you need to add a little water and scrape up all the brown bits on the bottom and pour this sauce into a bowl. Add salt and pepper and a bit of fresh lemon juice if you want. This is a dipping sauce for the chicken.

If all has gone well the skin will be flat and crisp and will have a smokey flavor from the bacon. The spice rub will add a lot of flavor and the sweet and sour lemon sauce is a great foil.

Clams and Celery with Vermouth

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 10 minutes plus an hour to soak the clams

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Cost per serving: $1.50

Useful leftovers: Good served cold with a flavorful sauce

Fast and easy and so tasty

Serves 1

4 clams
1/4 rib of celery
1/2 shallot
1 teaspoon of olive oil
1 tablespoon of water
1 tablespoon of dry vermouth
Zest and juice of a lemon

Soak the clams in cold water for an hour. Scrub them to make sure they are clean and have no grit.

Finely chop the shallot and cut the celery into 1/2 inch pieces. Saute them gently with the zest in the olive oil.

When they are translucent and slightly browned take the pan off the heat and add the clams, the vermouth and the water. Cover the pan and put it on high heat.

Cook for two  minutes then peek to see if the clams are starting to open. If they are, remove the open clams to a bowl. Season the liquid in the pan with salt and lemon juice. Pour the liquid over the clams and serve.

Super Sauce

Difficulty: Very Easy

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: None

Cost per serving: $0.50

Useful leftovers: Yes

A sour cream based dressing. It really brings out the flavors of certain foods. Great with cucumbers.

I never measure anything so start out light and add more flavorings as you taste it. This sauce is amazingly low in calories and packs a flavor punch.

The light sour cream that I use has only 20 calories per tablespoon. Here is a great trick - before you add the other ingredients whip the sour cream with a wire whip until it lightens and thickens like regular whipped cream.

If you beat it until the volume increases 50% then it is only 13 calories per tablespoon! Amazing.

Start with a half cup of sour cream and whip it until it holds soft peaks. Add any or all of the following flavorings.

I use this combination of flavorings:

1 tablespoon of dijon style mustard
1 tablespoon mushed up blue cheese
1/2 tablespoon prepared or fresh horseradish
Zest of one lemon and half of the juice
1 teaspoon chopped shallot, rinsed
Salt and pepper

Also good:

Capers
Finely chopped olives
Anchovies or a little mashed up smoked fish
Parsley or cilantro or basil
Hot sauce or peppers
Sweet peppers
Finely chopped cucumbers

Be sure and gently fold the flavorings in so you don’t undo all the whipping.

Taste and add ingredients as you wish.

Hartman House Spice Mix

I never measure anything so the amounts are, well, variable. If I am out of something I leave it out or use something else.

4 parts sweet paprika
1 part smoked paprika
Pinch of chipotle powder
Pinch of ancho chile powder
More pinches: garlic powder, dried thyme
Ground cumin seeds
Celery seeds

Note that there is no salt or pepper. This way I can control each for each dish.

Note that this mixture can burn so you have to be careful.

Buy your garlic powder carefully. Sometimes it is dehydrated at too high a temperature and has a bitter taste.

I use this mixture as a general seasoning and as a rub for barbeque or smoking meat.

Curried Shrimp

A great way to cook shrimp; fast, easy, low in calories and YUMMY!


Shrimp
Curry powder
Olive oil
Lemon juice
Salt and pepper

Pour a bit of olive oil in a bowl and add enough curry powder to make a loose paste. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Add the shrimp and mix.

Heat a heavy bottomed pan and add the shrimp. Cook until almost half done then turn over. Cook just until they are barely done.

Remove the shrimp, add more lemon juice and a little water to the pan if necessary. Scrape up the bits on the bottom of the pan and pour the sauce over the shrimp. Salt and pepper to taste.

You can use orange or apple juice instead of water and lemon juice.

This is a favorite picnic food of our and we have eaten it at many a baseball game!

Hartman House Pasta Salad basic recipe

1 lb small pasta such as acini di pepe or orzo
1 large cucumber
1 bunch of herbs (cilantro, basil or flat-leaf parsley)
1 tablespoon of whole cumin, ground
1 teaspoon of celery seeds, crushed between your fingers
Olive oil
Red wine vinegar
Lemon zest and juice


Boil the pasta in salted water until just done. Drain and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking. Drain very well.

Crunchy cashews added a salty crunch. Yay!

We want to use all of the skin of the cucumber (if it hasn't been waxed) so cut it like this: cut two strips off either side to get a lot of the skin off. Slice the skin into tiny pieces. Cut the rest of the cucumber into 1/4" dice.

Chop the herbs.

Add the herbs and cucumbers to the pasta along with the seeds and the lemon zest. Dress with oil and vinegar and lemon juice to taste. Salt and pepper.