Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Onions and Fennel

Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 7 - 10  minutes
Cost per serving: $0.75 to $1.00
Useful leftovers: Yes. This is great thrown into a soup or used in a pasta sauce


I served a nice dinner to a friend yesterday and this was the dish he really liked. It's easy and fast and very tasty.

This recipe involves dry-frying, my technique of cooking vegetables in a hot pan with no oil or liquids.

1 Onion
1 large bulb of Fennel
A bit of olive oil or butter
Salt and Pepper

Peel, remove the stem and chop the onion into slices or chunks at least 1/4" thick. If they are too thin they will burn rather than grill.

Peel if necessary, remove the core and chop of slice the same size as the onion.

Put the vegetables in a cold heavy bottomed frying pan and turn the heat onto medium. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are completely cooked and browned a little. Season with salt and pepper, a bit of olive oil or butter and swirl the pan around. Serve.

This dish can stay hot in the pan for a few minutes.

You can make this with parsnips, celery, very small dice of carrots, zucchini, etc.

You can serve this with Super Sauce, walnut pieces, bits of smoked ham, sliced green leafy herbs like basil or parsley, or rosemary or cumin.

Cucumber and Carrot Salad

Difficulty: Very easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: None
Cost per serving: $0.25 to $1.00
Useful leftovers: Useful but not great. The salad is best fresh.

So easy! So healthy! So tasty!
1 cucumber
1 carrot
1 tablespoon of walnut pieces
Toasted sesame oil
Lemon juice or vinegar
Salt and pepper

Wash the cucumber and slice it thinly or cut into chunks.

Scrub the carrot and cut it into small pieces. I like to do this by cutting a thin slice lengthwise so it will sit flat, then cutting it into wedges, then cutting those into sticks. Use a sharp, heavy knife for best control.

Put the cucumber and carrot in a mixing bowl and season with the sesame oil, lemon juice or vinegar and salt and pepper. Sprinkle the walnuts on top and serve.

To make this really special, toast the walnuts for a few minutes in a dry saute pan over medium heat or in a 350° oven for a few minutes, then let them cool and add them to the salad.

Friday, April 1, 2011

How to Cook Steaks or Chops

Difficulty: Medium but takes some practice to get the doneness right
Prep time: depends how much trimming the steak needs
Cooking time: 10 minutes per inch of steak
Cost per serving: $1.00 and up depending on the quality and cut of meat
Useful leftovers: Holy Escoffier yes!

Is there anything more satisfying than a good steak!

There are a couple of tricks to making a really great steak and here they are. These apply to beef steaks, pork chops, lamb, whatever but for clarity's sake I am going to use beef in all the examples.

Pork tenderloin with red eye (coffee!) gravy
First you have to start with a good piece of meat. Since steak is a simple dish the ingredients truly matter.

Knowing which cut to use makes a huge difference.  Muscles that get used a lot like the leg and shoulder do not make tender steaks. They have to braised or ground to get them to be tender enough to eat.


The most tender part of a mammal is the tenderloin, a long thin muscle that lays against the spine. On an animal where the spine is horizontal, like cattle, the tenderloin does practically nothing. It has very little fat or connective tissue. It's the most tender cut but also the least flavorful. It's the most expensive part of the animal because it is so tender, but that hardly makes it the best steak.

One of my favorites - lamb flank steaks!

Next on the list are cuts that come from the rib section, such as the rib-eye and the New York strip. These are the perfect combination of tenderness and flavor.  Marbling, or the fat in between the muscle fibers, will determine the quality and price of the steak. At the top is Wagyu, or Kobe style beef. It is very rich with obvious marbling all through the meat. I'll never forget the first time I tried it at Grace in Los Angeles. It's expensive but really a great experience to eat.

Sirloin chops come from an area that gets a little more exercise so they are not quite as tender but still can be good eating.  Steaks from the round and flank are less tender yet but still can be made into good steaks. There are other small steaks that are interesting but come from less tender areas of the animal. I like flat iron steaks that come from the shoulder. There are only two small steaks per animal but they have an interesting texture and a lot of flavor. They also cook very quickly.

Steaks cut from the shoulder and leg can be rather chewy.

Pork sirloin steak with chipotle and powdered garlic
So now to the technique.

1) Take the steaks out of the fridge and let them come to room temperature before you cook them. Rub them with oil to help brown them.

2) Salt but don't pepper them right before cooking. You'll add more salt later so don't over do it.

3) If you are cooking indoors use a heavy bottomed pan. The heavy bottom will spread the heat evenly and will not cool off when you put the meat in it.

If you are cooking outdoors get your grill hot.

Rolled lamb leg steak with Super Sauce

 4) Use the guideline of ten minutes per inch to cook the meat. If it is less than an inch thick you can cook it right on top of the stove but if it is thicker you'll want to brown it on top of the stove, baste it then finish it in a hot oven. This improves the texture and keeps the outside from overcooking while the meat cooks through.

To test for doneness the best way is to press the steak with your finger. If it is soft it is rare. If it is firm but still a little soft in the middle it is medium rare (this is where I take it off the heat). If it is firm it is well done. If you are not sure you can take a small knife and peek inside.

Let the steak rest for a couple of minutes before serving it. If you cut into it right away the moisture will run right out and the meat will get gray, toughen up and be dry.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Dry Fried Asparagus

Difficulty: Very Easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 4 minutes
Cost per serving: $0.25 to $0.40
Useful leftovers: Yes

Dry frying is my technique of cooking vegetables in a dry hot pan until done then dressed lightly with oil or butter and seasonings.

It is really easy and fast and the veggies taste fantastic.

You need a heavy bottomed pan. You can't make this in a thin bottomed pan. Maybe you can, but I can't.

This recipe works really well with asparagus, green beans, squash, carrots, onions, celery, etc.

Asparagus, washed carefully and dried, tough stalks removed and cut into 1/2" pieces
A tiny bit of butter
Salt and pepper

Heat a cast iron pan until it is fairly hot. You don't want it extremely hot but if you drop a drop of water on it it should sizzle and the water should evaporate quickly.

Put the chopped veggies in one layer in the pan. It's ok if they don't all quite fit but if you have two complete layers the veggies will get soggy.

Shake the pan every couple of minutes while they cook. Let the veggies cook until they are slightly brown and just barely done. Toss in the bit of butter and swirl the pan just until the butter is melted and pour out into a serving dish. Season with salt and pepper and stir gently.

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Brown Rice Risotto

Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour but most of it is just watching and stirring
Cost per serving: $0.50 to $2.00 or more if you use fancy ingredients like expensive mushrooms
Useful leftovers: Very useful! Great reheated or used to thicken soup

This is a great recipe. It takes a long time but there is little work to do. Despite what TV cooks will tell you you don't need arborio or carnaroli rice. The texture of this risotto is surprisingly like the classic risotto but with a nuttier flavor and of course it's a lot better for you. Not only is it a whole grain dish I don't dump a half pound of cheese on it - but you could. My version is vegan but you could use chicken or beef stock instead of the mushroom stock, and you can add bits of cooked meat as a garnish.

This recipe takes over an hour to cook but after the first ten minutes you just have to stir and add liquid when needed, which is every few minutes.

The best rice for this is brown basmati rice. I love the nutty taste which really comes out in this dish. It's really versatile too; you can eat it as is, add nuts, cheese, bits of leftover meat, you can throw it in a soup or you can put it on a tray and refrigerate it, cut it into shapes and deep fry it.

1 onion, minced
1 tablespoon of olive oil
1 ounce dried mushrooms
2 cups of brown rice
1 clove of garlic, minced
Fresh or dried thyme
4 cups of hot water

Put the wild mushrooms in the hot water. Stir them up and push them down so they are all wet. Keep this stock on a low heat or keep it covered while you make the risotto. If it cools down heat it up again. You want the stock to be just below the boiling point while you add it to the rice over the course of an hour.

Saute the onions in the olive oil with the thyme until the onions are cooked but not browned. Add the rice and stir to coat the rice and cook for a couple of minutes. It should smell quite nutty.

Add enough mushroom stock to barely cover the rice and stir like mad. Leave the rice over really low heat and every few minutes stir it like mad. You don't want to be gentle, you want to put little holes in the rice.

When there is just a little liquid left in the rice add more to cover and stir like mad again.

If you start to run out of stock and the rice isn't cooked just add some more hot water to the mushrooms.

After 45 minutes or so you'll start to see a nice creamy quality to the liquid in the rice. When you see that and the rice is no longer hard the risotto is done.

Add salt and pepper (be generous as the rice is bland) and if they are tender add the mushrooms from the soaking liquid.

You can garnish the risotto with fresh herbs, cheese, bits of meat, water chestnuts, etc.

Monday, March 28, 2011

Sauteed Celery

Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: 2 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Cost per serving: $0.25 to $0.50
Useful leftovers: Good reheated and good to throw in soup or use other ways

This is a simple dish but it's unusual and has a lot of flavor and texture.

Celery
Olive Oil
Salt, pepper and a pinch of celery seeds.

Wash and slice a few ribs of celery about 1/4 inch thick. Heat a dry, heavy bottomed pan and add the celery and let it sit for a minute or two until it starts to turn brown. Add a bit of olive oil (just for flavor really) and grind a pinch of celery seeds with your fingers over it, sprinkle with salt and serve.

Takes a couple of minutes, is low in calories and tastes great. Simple and delicious and unusual enough to serve at the fanciest tables.

You can vary the recipe by adding onions, corn, parsnips, parsley, etc. It's great for a bed for entrees.

How to cook Green Beans

Quick, easy and so tasty as a side dish.



Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: up to ten minutes
Cooking time: 1 to 5 minutes
Cost per serving: $0.50 to $1.00
Useful leftovers: Yes

I love this method of cooking vegetables. They steam in their own juices and get a little browning action.

Clean, dry and trim some green beans. Cut them into one inch lengths.



Get a heavy bottomed pan hot and add the beans. Do not put oil or butter in the pan first. Don't stir them, let them brown.

When you can see they are about a third of the way done shake the pan and turn them all over to cook the other side.

When they are about a third of the way done on the second side add a pat or two of butter and swirl the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and remove from the pan immediately.

The beans will be crunchy and have a great deep flavor.

This recipe also works with zucchini, celery, parsnips, etc.