Thursday, April 14, 2011

Garlic Flank Steak

Difficulty:  Easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Cost per serving: $3.00 to $4.00
Useful leftovers: Yes

Flank steak is a great cut of meat! It has hardly any fat but a lot of flavor and a wonderful texture. It's not fork tender like a tenderloin but has a nicely chewy, beefy texture. It is one of my father's favorite meals. He liked the well done bits on the thin ends.
You can easily alter the recipe but be careful to use a meat that can stand up to strong flavors. The delicate qualities of a veal chop would be lost in this recipe. It would work with salmon but not halibut for the same reason.
Flank steak
A head of garlic
Olive oil
Fresh rosemary
Paprika
Red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper

Trim the steaks if needed. If there are bits of fat you can usually pull them off with your fingers.

Take the head of garlic and slice off the root end (the non-pointy end). Crush the head with your hand to separate the cloves. Take each clove and smash it and take the skin off. Most cooks do this by laying the flat blade of a chef's knife on the clove then hitting it with your fist, but you can use a meat pounder, small frying pan or if are like me - just your hand.

Put all the peeled garlic in a pile and chop like mad. Don't worry if the pieces aren't all the same size.

Put the garlic on the meat, sprinkle with paprika and rosemary. If you are going to let it marinate then cover it and marinate and add the red wine vinegar and seasonings right before you cook it. If you are going to use it right away add all the ingredients and smoosh it all over the meat.

In any case let the steak come to room temperature before you cook it.

Prepare a charcoal grill and when it is quite hot add a chunk of almond or oak wood if you have it to the side of the coals and replace the grill and cook the steak. You want high heat to cook it quickly and to burn off all the garlic. You can also use a heavy bottomed pan and grill it right on top of the stove or use a broiler.

If your grill is hot the steak will be done in about 7 minutes, more for a thick steak and less for a thin one.

Remove it from the grill and let it rest at least 5 minutes in a warm place before you cut into it. It's ok to let it cool a bit and it's fantastic even at room temperature.

Since this steak has some strong flavors it is best to serve with something that contrasts.  I like to serve it with my Super Sauce with some chopped cucunbers added.

You can make this recipe much easier by buying (the horror!) chopped garlic, cooking it in an indoor broiler or leaving out the almond wood.

Thunder Chicken

Difficulty: Medium
Prep time: 5 minutes for one or two servings
Cooking time: 15 - 25 minutes, then 5 minutes to rest
Cost per serving: $0.50 to $2.00 depending on what chicken pieces you use
Useful leftovers: Yes. This is great cold
 
I created this dish for a fancy dinner I was catering many years ago at a nice house in Los Altos. There was a large komado grill and I asked a friend to get a charcoal fire going in there. He dropped a whole 20 pound bag of charcoal and lit it. That grill was so hot it took all the hair off both my arms and I was using long tongs!

The chicken came out great. And it's so cost effective. That's business talk for 'it makes a cheapskate smile.'

This recipe is for range cooking but it works as well on an outdoor grill.

I have an aversion to burnt garlic and can tell if there is a molecule of it in a red sauce. I hate it on fish. To me garlic should be barely translucent, not brown.

However for this dish the garlic gets really cooked. Browned. Destroyed. Yum!

Chicken
Garlic, for each piece of chicken figure 2 whole cloves of garlic
Toasted sesame oil, figure a teaspoon per piece of chicken and one more tablespoon for cooking
Salt
Pepper

Cut your chicken into serving size pieces. You can leave the skin on or take it off. Put the chicken in a bowl.

Chop the garlic. You don't have to make all the pieces the same size, just chop away. Dump it in the bowl with the chicken.

Sprinkle on some sesame oil.

You can marinate the chicken overnight to get a deeper sesame flavor in the chicken but it works well if you cook it right away too.


If you cook it on the stove put a small amount of sesame oil in a cold, heavy bottomed pan and add the chicken. Turn the heat on and bring it up to medium. You want the garlic to brown but not burn. It is going to cook for a long time so it's critical you get the pan the right temperature. If it is sizzling hard it is too hot. If it is not sizzling then it is too cool.


You can cook the chicken completely in the pan or you can brown it in the pan then put the pan in a hot oven (400°) until it is done. You'll get crisper skin if you cook it all on the stove top but you will get more tender chicken if you finish it in the stove. You can also finish it in the stove then crisp the skin in the pan.

When the chicken is completely cooked let it rest for 5 minutes before eating. The best way to know if it's done is to touch the chicken. Chicken that is still raw in the middle feels squishy and when it is overdone it feels hard. This is the only tricky part of this recipe; getting the chicken cooked properly and the skin crispy. It takes a little experience.

You can garnish the chicken with sesame seeds or chopped raw tomato and basil or cilantro. This dish goes well with mashed, roasted or baked potatoes, a cooling green salad and some sauteed veggies.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Pan Gravies

Beef with red-eye gravy. Coffee and beef!
Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: up to ten minutes
Cooking time: 1 to 5 minutes
Cost per serving: $0.50 to $2.00 or more if you use fancy ingredients like expensive mushrooms
Useful leftovers: Depends

Making a pan sauce or gravy is easy and delicious. It has a bad name because of some bad practices but we'll avoid those.

The idea of a pan gravy is to make a fast, tasty sauce using the caramelized brown bits left in the bottom of the pan and a flavorful liquid. It's the cheapskate's perfect way to add flavor to sauteed meats or vegetables.

Some caveats:

- If the stuff in the bottom of the pan is burned it won't make a tasty sauce. It will taste burned.
- In traditional French cooking your pan sauce would have lots of butter in it. We'll avoid that.
- The liquids and seasoning used in the gravy must be flavorful and complement the food to be sauced.

The general rules for making a pan gravy are:

- Take the sauteed or roasted items out of the pan and keep warm
- Cook aromatics in the pan
- Add liquids and reduce
- Season

Pork tenderloin with gravy made from water!
Let's say you wanted to make pork chops and country gravy. You would saute the chops in a heavy bottomed frying pan. When they are done you remove them and keep them warm, drain the fat out of the pan and add a bit of coffee.  Turn the heat to high and scrape up all the goodness on the bottom of a pan. Pour it over the chops.

To make chicken with mushroom gravy cook the chicken in a heavy bottomed pan. Remove it and keep it warm and add some minced onion and sliced mushrooms and cook quickly. When they are cooked and brown add a bit of dried thyme, a touch of milk or cream and scrape up the bottom of the pan. Pour it over the chicken.

To make a steak with red wine gravy cook the steak in the pan, take it out and keep it warm. Follow the directions for the chicken above but instead of milk or cream add some red wine and reduce. Then at the last minute add a touch of butter, or milk or cream or sour cream and swirl.

You can use all sorts of liquids to make the gravy. You can use apple juice or tomato juice, water, milk, cream, liquors, etc. Just make sure it complements the principal ingredients and use a good tasting liquid. An over the hill or sour wine will make bland or off-putting gravy. You don't have to use Lafite to make gravy but if you use crappy wine you'll get crappy gravy.

Season the gravy with salt and pepper at the last minute.

Mushroom Rice

Difficulty: Easy

Prep time: 1 minute or less
Cooking time: 15 to 35 minutes plus 10 minutes to rest
Cost per serving: $0.50 to $2.00 depending on what dried mushrooms you use
Useful leftovers: Yes. Throw in soup or use to make fried rice.


Dried mushrooms are a great ingredient. So useful for making stocks here it creates a stock as the rice cooks.

It's important to use mushrooms that will be tender enough to eat. Some dried mushrooms can be really tough. To check put a few dried mushrooms in a cup of hot water and wait ten minutes then taste them.

If they are tough then you can use them to make stock but don't add them to the dish. Just heat two cups of water and add the mushrooms, wait ten minutes or until the stock is dark brown then drain and use the water in the recipe instead of using the mushrooms.

2 tablespoons dried mushrooms
2 cups of rice (I like brown basmati but you can use virtually any kind of rice)
Water to cover

Put the dried mushrooms in a pot. Add the rice. Cook according to the directions on the rice. I always use my mom's rule - put enough water in to cover the rice and one thumbnail. I put in two thumbnails for brown rice because it takes longer to cook.

This is a hearty dish and you can garnish it in many ways. You can use walnut or almond or peanut pieces, smoke salmon, pork, bits of chicken, green herbs, etc.

This recipe is not only a great accompaniment it is a great leftover. A tablespoon in a veggie soup packs a lot of flavor. It reheats beautifully. You can use it to stuff vegetables or a chicken. You can saute onions, carrots, parsnips, etc. in the pan before you make this recipe in it. You can add curry, cumin, saffron, etc.

Onions and Fennel

Difficulty: Easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 7 - 10  minutes
Cost per serving: $0.75 to $1.00
Useful leftovers: Yes. This is great thrown into a soup or used in a pasta sauce


I served a nice dinner to a friend yesterday and this was the dish he really liked. It's easy and fast and very tasty.

This recipe involves dry-frying, my technique of cooking vegetables in a hot pan with no oil or liquids.

1 Onion
1 large bulb of Fennel
A bit of olive oil or butter
Salt and Pepper

Peel, remove the stem and chop the onion into slices or chunks at least 1/4" thick. If they are too thin they will burn rather than grill.

Peel if necessary, remove the core and chop of slice the same size as the onion.

Put the vegetables in a cold heavy bottomed frying pan and turn the heat onto medium. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions are completely cooked and browned a little. Season with salt and pepper, a bit of olive oil or butter and swirl the pan around. Serve.

This dish can stay hot in the pan for a few minutes.

You can make this with parsnips, celery, very small dice of carrots, zucchini, etc.

You can serve this with Super Sauce, walnut pieces, bits of smoked ham, sliced green leafy herbs like basil or parsley, or rosemary or cumin.

Cucumber and Carrot Salad

Difficulty: Very easy
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: None
Cost per serving: $0.25 to $1.00
Useful leftovers: Useful but not great. The salad is best fresh.

So easy! So healthy! So tasty!
1 cucumber
1 carrot
1 tablespoon of walnut pieces
Toasted sesame oil
Lemon juice or vinegar
Salt and pepper

Wash the cucumber and slice it thinly or cut into chunks.

Scrub the carrot and cut it into small pieces. I like to do this by cutting a thin slice lengthwise so it will sit flat, then cutting it into wedges, then cutting those into sticks. Use a sharp, heavy knife for best control.

Put the cucumber and carrot in a mixing bowl and season with the sesame oil, lemon juice or vinegar and salt and pepper. Sprinkle the walnuts on top and serve.

To make this really special, toast the walnuts for a few minutes in a dry saute pan over medium heat or in a 350° oven for a few minutes, then let them cool and add them to the salad.

Friday, April 1, 2011

How to Cook Steaks or Chops

Difficulty: Medium but takes some practice to get the doneness right
Prep time: depends how much trimming the steak needs
Cooking time: 10 minutes per inch of steak
Cost per serving: $1.00 and up depending on the quality and cut of meat
Useful leftovers: Holy Escoffier yes!

Is there anything more satisfying than a good steak!

There are a couple of tricks to making a really great steak and here they are. These apply to beef steaks, pork chops, lamb, whatever but for clarity's sake I am going to use beef in all the examples.

Pork tenderloin with red eye (coffee!) gravy
First you have to start with a good piece of meat. Since steak is a simple dish the ingredients truly matter.

Knowing which cut to use makes a huge difference.  Muscles that get used a lot like the leg and shoulder do not make tender steaks. They have to braised or ground to get them to be tender enough to eat.


The most tender part of a mammal is the tenderloin, a long thin muscle that lays against the spine. On an animal where the spine is horizontal, like cattle, the tenderloin does practically nothing. It has very little fat or connective tissue. It's the most tender cut but also the least flavorful. It's the most expensive part of the animal because it is so tender, but that hardly makes it the best steak.

One of my favorites - lamb flank steaks!

Next on the list are cuts that come from the rib section, such as the rib-eye and the New York strip. These are the perfect combination of tenderness and flavor.  Marbling, or the fat in between the muscle fibers, will determine the quality and price of the steak. At the top is Wagyu, or Kobe style beef. It is very rich with obvious marbling all through the meat. I'll never forget the first time I tried it at Grace in Los Angeles. It's expensive but really a great experience to eat.

Sirloin chops come from an area that gets a little more exercise so they are not quite as tender but still can be good eating.  Steaks from the round and flank are less tender yet but still can be made into good steaks. There are other small steaks that are interesting but come from less tender areas of the animal. I like flat iron steaks that come from the shoulder. There are only two small steaks per animal but they have an interesting texture and a lot of flavor. They also cook very quickly.

Steaks cut from the shoulder and leg can be rather chewy.

Pork sirloin steak with chipotle and powdered garlic
So now to the technique.

1) Take the steaks out of the fridge and let them come to room temperature before you cook them. Rub them with oil to help brown them.

2) Salt but don't pepper them right before cooking. You'll add more salt later so don't over do it.

3) If you are cooking indoors use a heavy bottomed pan. The heavy bottom will spread the heat evenly and will not cool off when you put the meat in it.

If you are cooking outdoors get your grill hot.

Rolled lamb leg steak with Super Sauce

 4) Use the guideline of ten minutes per inch to cook the meat. If it is less than an inch thick you can cook it right on top of the stove but if it is thicker you'll want to brown it on top of the stove, baste it then finish it in a hot oven. This improves the texture and keeps the outside from overcooking while the meat cooks through.

To test for doneness the best way is to press the steak with your finger. If it is soft it is rare. If it is firm but still a little soft in the middle it is medium rare (this is where I take it off the heat). If it is firm it is well done. If you are not sure you can take a small knife and peek inside.

Let the steak rest for a couple of minutes before serving it. If you cut into it right away the moisture will run right out and the meat will get gray, toughen up and be dry.